Background
Snaking along a continuous mountain spine, the Baekdu-Daegan trail connects North and South Korea. Its path winds some 1,400km through rugged granite mountains passing through spectacular scenery, modern cities, and ancient temples along the way.
The official northern terminus of the trail is Baekdu-san in North Korea. But, near the southern end lies one of South Korea’s most important natural areas. Jirisan National Park was designated as the country’s first national park in 1967. It is home to a variety of native flora and fauna, including a small population of highly endangered Asiatic black bears. It also contains many historical and religious sites along with one of the highest peaks in the country, Cheonwang-bong (1,915 meters).
Getting There
Our journey started after work the day before a 4-day weekend. I had my gear staged in my barracks and had just picked up my new Kelty Redwing 44 from the post office. Military mail can be unreliable and this delivery came just in time. This Kelty was my first true backpacking rig and a far cry from the military ALICE pack I’d used in the past. After packing my new purchase, I met my friend, Jay, and we went to the train station.
Our plan was to take a train from Seoul to Namwon, the closest station we could find to the trailhead. As we arrived in Namwon around midnight, we decided that we’d be better served to break out our bags and sleep in the station as there were no buses, few taxies, and no other lodging options.
Transportation options didn’t improve much by morning. We were much further from the park than we thought and neither of us could speak Korean. But after some walking, a couple different taxi drivers, and about $120 in fares, we eventually made it to the visitor center.
On The Trail
This area is far from the metropolitan centers and their air pollution. Visibility here is some of the best in the country. The views of the first day were breathtaking. Autumn goes by quickly in Korea and we were at the very beginning. So, while not the mosaic this time of year is famous for, there was still plenty to see. After an overnight in a Korea Forest Service cabin, we set out again over the frost covered ground.
The next major point of interest was a natural spring. According to tradition, this is the final resting place of a local farmer. The man, who had been disrespected by the village, requested to be buried behind the spring. This way, when the villagers came to fetch water, they would bow to him for the rest of eternity. The water is clean, clear, and cold. Set back against a spectacular overlook, it is the perfect place to refill, relax, and recharge before pressing on. By now, the trail is also deep in park.
Continuing from the spring, Cheonwang-bong begins to become clear in the distance. The trail follows a ridge most of the way. So once at altitude, walking is generally rolling through high meadows from overlook to overlook. But within a couple kilometers of the peak, the trail shoots straight into the sky. Eventually, it leads to the top of the tallest mountain in mainland South Korea. Only Hallasan on Jeju Island and other peaks in North Korea are taller.
As steeply as it ascended one side, the trail descends on the other. About halfway down is an ancient Buddhist temple. The original site was built in the 1200s and has been destroyed, occupied, and rebuilt ever since. Tucked into the mountainside with steep, rocky slopes both above and below, it is a wondrous image.
At this point, we had much more company than the previous day. The road is right below, so people only wanting to do the peak have a steep 6km or so climb. Buses and taxis ferry people to and from the trailhead and visitors buy trinkets from the monks at the temple. At the bottom are good restaurants to enjoy a hot traditional Korean meal.
On Hiking In Korea
This particular section of the Baekdu-Daegan was relatively natural. The whole trail would likely require a lot of road walking or possibly even transportation. The mountains in Korea can be both pleasant and unforgiving. Harsh winters and muggy summers make this hike more suited to a fall weekend. Nighttime temperatures can be very cold and the wind cuts through layers like nothing I’ve experienced since. However, by mid-morning it is pleasant enough for a short sleeve shirt allowing one to hike at a decent pace without sweating excessively.
Accommodations are restricted to the very comfortable, though crowded, forest service cabins. You must have a reservation. We found out the hard way that you cannot just show up. If you do reserve a spot, it will literally take a load off your shoulders as you won’t have to worry about carrying a shelter or sleep system. The cabins are communal type sleeping in the traditional style of sleeping on the floor. They are warm, and we were provided with a fresh blanket and pillow.
Koreans love to hike and be outdoors. However, they like to be comfortable. It is not unusual to see them equipped as if to tackle a 2-week backcountry expedition on a day hike or overnight trip. I eventually found why when I saw a group enjoying lunch. Everything you find in a traditional Korean restaurant, they bring on the trail. Rice, kimchi, soup, and meat are all on the menu. Plenty of soju and makgeolli make an afternoon in the Korean mountains a thoroughly enjoyable experience. While Jirisan is very easy to do quickly with an ultralight pack (and indeed, we were passing other hikers left and right), I recommend trying the Korean way for a change. This book was a great help in planning my Korean hikes.
Closing Thoughts
Sitting atop those vistas, you gain a new perspective and respect for the fighting men and women who waged a brutal war among the mountains while braving the freezing cold, biting winds, and stifling heat. With the roller coaster that is the North-South relationship, I cannot help but think about the Baekdu-Daegan. Perhaps one day, when the guards stand down and the guns are covered, you and I may be able to embark on a new epic thru-hike. Along the way, we may see others like us. Adventurers from all over the peninsula finding peace in the fall colors. People of one mind because mountains care not for the boundaries of man.
